We began to turn west slightly and rolled up on the most spectacular
range we have ever seen. We knew that the legendary Fitz Roy peaks
were here near, and then: BAM! The weather permitted a clear view of
its steep fingers reaching 3400 meters high above the snow. We all
had been dreaming of this place for several years. Josh using this
very image for the background of his phone back in 2010, I read blogs
and saved photos of this place back in 2006. It had been a long time
coming.
Hiking these hills was rewarding with massive and thundering glacial
ice fields strewn about its base. It was no doubt we had arrived;
seeing climbers lugging around their gear after having prepped here in
Chalten Argentina for 1, 2, 3 months or more.
Now we head out to visit the next big goal of seeing first hand, the
incomprehensibly large Perito Moreno Glacier. At this point we're just
80km away! We've heard of its size, taller than large buildings, wider
than a city, and snaking its way down the mountains for miles. I can't
wait to hear and see the sights and sounds of massive ice booming with
thunder as the ice breaks and then slams into the water. This should
be good!
Wednesday, February 19
Back in Argentina
So much has happened. We crossed back over from Chile into Argentina after learning that there is no way to get from Villa O'Higgins (bottom of Careterra Austral) over to our destination in Argentina of El Chalten and Fitz Roy. One the way we saw probably 300 Llama esque creatures called Guanacos that can leap. Pretty cool. Emus too. Wild. We camped the first night at a dried up lake, well, mostly dried up as we found out after Luke got a little too close to the low spot and got his bike stuck hard. Made for a great photo, but frustrating. The next day in Argentina had frustrations as well as I made a dumb move by riding on a super new patch of paved road. So new in fact it wasn't open yet. The wind and sketchy gravel caused me to take the risk, and I was rewarded by going down after electing to go through some uber goopy tar. Covered everything. Seemingly impossible to clean. I've actually thrown out my pants and gloves this morning after failed attempts to clean.
Some amazing riding and even better views. El Chalten and Fitz Roy have been amazing and a goal of mine for some time. We did a great hike near the base of this epic range yesterday, and today we are off to the world famous glacier Perito Moreno. Enjoy these pics, more to come!
Some amazing riding and even better views. El Chalten and Fitz Roy have been amazing and a goal of mine for some time. We did a great hike near the base of this epic range yesterday, and today we are off to the world famous glacier Perito Moreno. Enjoy these pics, more to come!
Tuesday, February 18
Naturally Carved Marble Cathedral
Negotiated our way into a sweet deal on a hilariously fun tour of
Chile's outstanding Marble Caves. Teetering above radiant, crystal
clear, turquoise water we piloted the boat through it's columns. Our
tour guide was a rad Chilean jokester who shrewdly ran a hodge podge
campground out of his yard, kitchen, and personal bathroom.
Pictures cannot do justice to the brilliant marble and precarious time
etched dreamscape. Try to note the way the morning light glimmers off
the smooth ceiling of the etched stone.
Having quite successfully charmed Boris, we all got a chance to drive.
Worth every penny, I'll remember this for a long time.
Chile's outstanding Marble Caves. Teetering above radiant, crystal
clear, turquoise water we piloted the boat through it's columns. Our
tour guide was a rad Chilean jokester who shrewdly ran a hodge podge
campground out of his yard, kitchen, and personal bathroom.
Pictures cannot do justice to the brilliant marble and precarious time
etched dreamscape. Try to note the way the morning light glimmers off
the smooth ceiling of the etched stone.
Having quite successfully charmed Boris, we all got a chance to drive.
Worth every penny, I'll remember this for a long time.
Saturday, February 15
Rad roads, secret hide-out camp spots
The vistas just don't stop and we keep finding fierce camping spots.
Even the bikes had a band style photo shoot on a strange bamboo
graveyard.
The Tarmac, smooth and twisty, satisfying my soul. The gravel gnarly,
remote, and lined with carcasses of old cars abandoned.
Even the bikes had a band style photo shoot on a strange bamboo
graveyard.
The Tarmac, smooth and twisty, satisfying my soul. The gravel gnarly,
remote, and lined with carcasses of old cars abandoned.
Thursday, February 13
Parts needed = Epic hike
As my fork seals blew oil all over my engine and legs, Josh's chain
began to give up the ghost. In waiting for parts being shipped across
Chile, we set out for a hike we were bummed to miss. Creating the most
amazing mountain pass of the trip so far, we didn't have the gusto,
food, or health necessary to take the hike through the Bosque
Encantado (Enchanted Forest) to a glacial lagoon (tarn). We ripped
back through the smooth and curvy roads over a hundred miles.
It couldn't have been a better decision, the weather was perfect and
the trail could not have been more aptly named. It was a wonderland,
beyond imagination of mossy overhanging woodland playground. Stacked
with streams every 100 feet until we started to climb.
There was the first glimpse of the glacier hanging over a cliff and we
made our way over the rocks and waterways to the top. I'll ne'er
forget the brilliant colors of that tarn, and to thinks that this is
only a tiny taste of what is to come. We made camp next to a remote
river, built a fire on a sandbar, and soaked in the pleasures of
sleeping on the road with sand beneath our bums and snow capped cliffs
above our heads. Not bad.
Now, the parts are on hand and we're gearing up to head south. Scroll
down to see Josh's pics of the hike and enchanted forest!
began to give up the ghost. In waiting for parts being shipped across
Chile, we set out for a hike we were bummed to miss. Creating the most
amazing mountain pass of the trip so far, we didn't have the gusto,
food, or health necessary to take the hike through the Bosque
Encantado (Enchanted Forest) to a glacial lagoon (tarn). We ripped
back through the smooth and curvy roads over a hundred miles.
It couldn't have been a better decision, the weather was perfect and
the trail could not have been more aptly named. It was a wonderland,
beyond imagination of mossy overhanging woodland playground. Stacked
with streams every 100 feet until we started to climb.
There was the first glimpse of the glacier hanging over a cliff and we
made our way over the rocks and waterways to the top. I'll ne'er
forget the brilliant colors of that tarn, and to thinks that this is
only a tiny taste of what is to come. We made camp next to a remote
river, built a fire on a sandbar, and soaked in the pleasures of
sleeping on the road with sand beneath our bums and snow capped cliffs
above our heads. Not bad.
Now, the parts are on hand and we're gearing up to head south. Scroll
down to see Josh's pics of the hike and enchanted forest!
Pics from yesterday
Went on a little day excursion yesterday. Hiked a self proclaimed Enchanted Forest, which led us to a crazy glacier. Enjoy a few pics if that and our great campsite we found by a river last night...
Monday, February 10
Slowly Moving South
While Mike and I were laid out flat with sickness, Josh took advantage
the low ceilings in our modest abode of recuperation to slam milk by
the liter. Fortunately we were able to find respite in both our health
and weather enough to trek out and visit our first few glaciers here
in Patagonia.
Last night we asked permission to sleep on a farm run as a community
by a badass farmer. This guy had built up quite the compound renting
out space to road construction workers and other temp workers in this
remote area. I wish I could've taken his picture; his hat, eyebrows
and total style were really something to behold.
This update courtesy of the free wifi at the local nazi history museum
here in Puyuhuapi, Chile. What a beautiful town! Stunning beauty had
been everywhere. We promise to stop and take more photos.
the low ceilings in our modest abode of recuperation to slam milk by
the liter. Fortunately we were able to find respite in both our health
and weather enough to trek out and visit our first few glaciers here
in Patagonia.
Last night we asked permission to sleep on a farm run as a community
by a badass farmer. This guy had built up quite the compound renting
out space to road construction workers and other temp workers in this
remote area. I wish I could've taken his picture; his hat, eyebrows
and total style were really something to behold.
This update courtesy of the free wifi at the local nazi history museum
here in Puyuhuapi, Chile. What a beautiful town! Stunning beauty had
been everywhere. We promise to stop and take more photos.
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